I’d love to reproduce the scrumptious ravioli with pork, tomato and fennel sauce I enjoyed so much in Modica.
It’s a beautiful little place, Modica, although you would need sturdier legs than mine to go about your daily business. You need a strong heart as well. About 15km out of Ragusa, over the 300m-high Guerrieri bridge, you can see Modica deep down below at the bottom of the gorge. For me, deep ravines like this are terrifying sights but if you can manage heights without fainting, the journey is exciting and you’ll be rewarded when you arrive in this stunning and splendid town. I just kept my eyes closed until the bus stopped.
For pure rococo splendour, you can’t beat the Chiesa di San Giorgio in Modica Alta. Designed by Gagliardi, the great architect from Siracusa, it’s perched on a majestic 250-step staircase.
In Modica Bassa is the Cattedrale di San Pietro, another stunner with a rippling staircase designed for mountaineers but lined, thankfully, with life-sized statues of the Apostles to guard you on your climb.
After these climbs, a hearty dish of Ravioli con sugo di maiale alla Modicana is exactly what you need to recover.
You can buy ravioli already prepared, or make your own. When I’m not in a raging hurry (and this recipe isn’t for anyone in any sort of hurry – the concept of ‘fast food’ hasn’t really infiltrated Sicily), I make my own ravioli. It’s easy enough.
I get pork and fennel sausages from Queen Victoria Market but they’re available just about anywhere.
Some images of the lovely little city of Modica, including the view from the bedroom window in my appartamento in Vico Muccio.